Peter Lindbergh: a Poet of Glamour



Peter Lindbergh's photography has been published by every major international fashion magazine and he has been commissioned for the campaigns of the worlds' leading fashion designers, from Giorgio Armani, Dior and Prada to Donna Karan and Calvin Klein.






Peter Lindbergh's instinct for photography is that of someone who could have been born with a camera in his hand, but the truth is that he didn't pick up a camera until he was 27 years old, after which he was under the tutelage of advertising photographer Hans Lux.




'I got into fashion photography by accident,' Lindbergh elaborates, 'I did advertising photography for five years. Then one day a magazine editor called me and said that my advertising didn't look like advertising. He gave me a fashion story. I did it, then Stern saw it and gave me fourteen pages.'

Then it was on to Marie Claire, Vogue and when Liz Tilberis began editing Harper's Bazaar, she brought in Lindbergh and Patrick Demarchelier for a small fortune, which in turn starting a bidding war that has benefited even those who stayed with Condé Nast, like Steven Meisel.




Describing his work, American Photo has said: 


"The most important quality in Peter Lindbergh's fashion photography is a forthright, almost shocking honesty. His models seem to open themselves emotionally to his camera. Amid the artifice, they seem real."




He is considered to be one of the world's preeminent fashion photographers and is credited with helping create the supermodel phenomenon of the 1990s.




He made a major contribution to the optical creation of this worldwide myth with his book Ten Women.  Published in 1996, Lindbergh devoted one chapter each to ten of the most beautiful and most celebrated models of the time: Naomi Campbell, Helen Christensen, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, Kristen McMenamy, Kate Moss, Tatjana Patitz, Claudia Schiffer, Christy Turlington and Amber Valetta.




Lindbergh is also a distinguished television commercial director. Many of his commercials have involved such fragrances as Guerlain "Champs-Elysées" with Sophie Marceau, Calvin Klein," Eternity" with Christy Turlington, Jil Sander "No.4," with Linda Evangelista, Giorgio Armani "Gio," Lancome "Tresor," Coty "Manifesto" with Isabella Rossellini, and Karl Lagerfeld's "Sun Moon Stars" with Daryl Hannah. 


He directed his first documentary-length film in 1991. "Models-The Film," was shot in New York with Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Tatjana Patitz and Stephanie Seymour. 




He photographed the 1996 Pirelli Calendar with Nastassja Kinski, Tatjana Patitz, Carré Otis, Eva Herzigova, Kristen McMenamy and Navia, and the 2002 Pirelli Calendar with among others Brittany Murphy, Mena Suvari, Kiera Chaplin and Selma Blair.




Among the many personalities he has photographed are Hilary Swank, Sharon Stone, Bernardo Bertolucci, Catherine Deneuve, Brad Pitt, Ashley Judd, Uma Thurman, John Malkovich, Charlotte Rampling, Samuel Jackson, Joaquin Cortès, Madonna, Mick Jagger, Tina Turner, Gena Rowland, John Travolta, Pamela Anderson, Antonio Banderas, Milla Jovovich, Cate Blanchett, Connie Nielsen, Adrien Brody, Asia Argento, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Diane Lane, Jennifer Lopez, Jeanne Moreau, Vincent Perez, Penelope Cruz, Chiara Mastroianni, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Scarlett Johanssen, Kirk Douglas, Dennis Hopper, James Coburn, Salma Hayek and Pedro Almodovar.





In 1997, he was presented the International Fashion Awards prize for Best Photographer, conferred in Paris by a jury of over 400 of the most important names in the fashion industry. His collaborators, Make-Up Artist Stephane Marais and Hair Stylist Odile Gilbert were also awarded the top distinction in their fields. 


Lindbergh was honored with the same award in 1995, when he also became an Honorary Member that year of the highly exclusive German Art Directors Club. In October, 1996, in Berlin, he was conferred the Raymond Loewy Foundation's Award, Europe's most important design honor.








Peter Lindbergh seems to be quite taken with this no-makeup, minimal-to-no retouching concept: In April, he captured Eva Herzigova, Ines de la Fressange, and a slew of European actresses without makeup or retouching for French Elle. A month after, he told the New York Times that he was tired of subjects in fashion magazines looking like overly-Photoshopped “objects from Mars": 


My feeling is that for years now it has taken a much too big part in how women are being visually defined today. Heartless retouching should not be the chosen tool to represent women in the beginning of this century.”



Lindbergh continues to lead the charge against excessive retouching, this time by capturing supermodels Amber Valletta, Nadja Auermann, Helena Christensen, Shalom Harlow, Claudia Schiffer, Tatjana Patitz, Cindy Crawford, and Kristen McMenamy without makeup or excessive retouching for Harper's Bazaar's September 2009 issue.



Considered one of the great masters of black and white photography, Peter Lindbergh is acclaimed for his cinematic images, which have redefined the world of fashion photography with their compelling realism, lack of pretension and ineffable depth of emotion.



My favourite is the one of the girls on the beach in their white shirts, having fun and looking carefree, enjoying themselves.

Ciao for now,

Hx

Style Crush: Milla Jovovich

I have always admired Milla's style.  I have been collecting images of her ensembles in my mind and in my scrapbooks for years now.  She always looks sexy and isn't afraid to show off her body, but I guess if you had a body like hers, why shouldn't you show it off?


Most people will recognise Milla from her modeling work for L'Orèal but she is also an accomplished singer-songwriter and actress.  She isn't your every day actress though because she seems to have cornered the market in action hero(ine) roles and has become a huge star for roles that see her saving the world in films such as The Fifth Element (1997) and of course the Resident Evil series (which is where she met her now husband Paul Anderson).  


Milla on the cover of Elle Italia.


Milla has a natural confidence and this shows in how she dresses, especially in her red carpet choices.


"I like dressing sexily, but I dress for me because guys don’t care as long as you’re showing some skin. You can walk around in short shorts and a tube top and men will think you look great. It’s only women who notice your shoes.”





Milla Jovovich was born in Kiev, Ukraine in 1975.  She moved to America with her parents when she was five and when she was nine, Milla started acting class which led to modeling at the age of eleven.

Milla didn't speak English and to ease the feeling of alienation brought on by her peers, Milla developed a fertile imagination and fantasy life and fascination with all things mythical and magical.   
"I was obsessed with fairies... I loved them. And I felt like I belonged to the forest.  Life, I thought, would be so much cooler as a wood nymph!"




I am such a fan of stripes!  Especially navy and white stripes.  Even if this dress was horrible, which it's not - I would still be drawn to it.  My eyes naturally gravitate toward stripes.  I love her hair in the second picture.  If you look at pictures of Milla when she was a lot younger, her hair was very long and had lovely curls.  Looking at her hair in this picture, wow.  Just goes to show how a good hair cut can change your whole look.  She looks sophisticated and grown up.



I love this little Miu Miu dress, it's always been a favourite.  She looks classy and chic.




Milla's major responsibility now is to her almost 2 year-old daughter Ever Gabo (such a little cutie too).  




Since Ever's birth, Milla's style has become more effortless and unfussy - must have something to do with hitting those early 30s, and not having the time to devote to how you look because all of your time is taken up with wrangling children.  I know it did for me.  

                                                

Casual chic and simple, unfettered elegance.                                                                 




Layers and denim.  




Pretty and street chic.


Milla is natural and funny and doesn't take herself too seriously, which is a good way to be, n'est-ce pas?




Recently Milla married Paul Anderson, father to her little girl Ever.  Milla designed her own dress and as you can see from the picture below, she chose a bohemian edge but she also still exuded elegance and grace, while all the while remaining classic Milla.






“The most beautiful women in history aren’t always the most interesting. “If men find me sexy, I would have to say it’s about the whole package. Men will often leave a beautiful woman for a woman with a strong personality who is funny.”

Milla's style influences my wardrobe with her simple elegance and her dare to bare attitude, showing-off a bare shoulder here or her long legs there.  We should never be afraid to show-off our best assets, whether they be your toes, your pinky finger, your décolletage, your lips, your derrière, or your waist, whatever it may be.  Simple elegance is not hard to find in your wardrobe, it is just a matter of taking a second look at something that you may have been too afraid to wear and throwing it on and mixing it up with something you love to wear everyday even - a favourite denim jacket perhaps, or your favourite ballet flats.  Look beyond what you see when you open that wardrobe door.  I promise you, you'll be surprised every time.




Ciao for now,

Hx





Sources: Life, Garance Dore, Elle, Style.com, Google, Interview Magazine, DailyMail.co.uk,

Vogue Heaven

So finally I was able to purchase my much anticipated copy of the September Australian Vogue - their 50th anniversary edition.  


Vogue Australia doesn't arrive in NZ until the last week of the month, so to say I've been hanging out for it is quite the understatement!  


I was not disappointed.  It is a triumph!  360 gorgeous pages and I'm not even half-way through after 2 solid hours of reading.


Vogue produced 4 spectacular covers for their special 50th anniversary edition all of which feature our divine Cate Blanchett drawn by the wonderful and very talented fashion illustrator, David Downton.  




Each one is a collector's edition.  I have many collector's editions of Vogue Australia, most of which are in mint condition and are treasures I will never part with.  But there is something extraordinary about these covers, they are truly, truly beautiful.  


So HAPPY BIRTHDAY Vogue Australia, I always have and always will, love you the most!


Have a lovely weekend everyone! 


Ciao for now,

Hx

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Style Crush: Alexa Chung



While researching for this blog on Alexa Chung, I was astounded by the sheer number of links and images available relating to her.  She is one hot topic out there right now, having been picked up by the fashion radar and her star is rapidly rising.  British Vogue has picked up on this because in June this year she became a contributing editor.   


I like Alexa because what you see is what you get.  Her style is so accessible, a mix of girly and tomboy, understated and quirky.  She mixes designer, wardrobe staples and High street brands so effortlessly.  She comes across as this adorable, chic and sexy girl/woman.






She knows herself well and this shines through in her consistent choices which feature her favourites such as blazers, satchels, plaid, skirts and knee-high socks, brogues and the nautical theme which she admits to being obsessed with.    




Alexa is a British TV presenter living in New York and she can be seen on MTV in her show It's On with Alexa Chung. Previously she was working for Channel 4 in London working on shows like Gok's Fashion Fix where, apart from being a roving reporter, she also got to interview designers such as Roberto Cavalli and Vivienne Westwood.  Before being made a contributing editor of British Vogue in June this year she previously wrote for Company magazine and had a weekly newspaper column in The Independent.  




It's her subtle highlights that add to her over all look.  Giving her hand-me-down look a luxurious boost with a pair of killer heels.  Or wearing brogues with tights and a sexy designer dress.






She has featured on the covers of Elle and Harper's Bazaar in the past year and she has appeared at all the major catwalk shows - even appearing in the odd one for Vivienne Westwood at London Fashion Week.  

There's an effortless "I didn't really bother" vibe to everything Alexa wears and a laid-back London street chic infuses her entire wardrobe. 





Alexa says that she doesn't like to look over dressed or too neat.  
"On TV I wear dresses mostly. If I'm not wearing a dress, then I'm always wearing jeans and band T-shirts. I have doubles of everything because I keep buying the same thing. I have lots of cable-knit cardigans and a variety of blazers".


Alexa prefers to look like a boy rather than get all dressed up and look overtly girly, which is interesting because I think her look is actually very feminine, and not overtly boyish at all.  
"I never think I look that nice. I prefer it when I look like a boy to when I have to dress up like a girl."


Alexa is all about low-key, low-maintenance, no fuss.  She is not obsessed with designers or trends but does fall in love with particular items in her wardrobe.
"I usually just put on trousers and whatever I've been wearing in bed. My cupboards are ridiculous. I've got too many clothes and not enough space, so I forget what's at the back of my wardrobe and I end up wearing the same thing for months, while the rest gets pushed further and further back."

Dressed up by the team at Elle (top) and Harper's Bazaar.  

Whose style do you admire?
I'm kind of obsessed with the Olsen twins. I find them amazing because they look like little well-dressed animals.
What would you never wear?
Probably a unitard. And I don't like T-shirts that are cut for girls.
What's your grooming routine?
I'm definitely low maintenance, but I need liquid eyeliner with me at all times so I look more like a cat. Without makeup, I look about five.


Alexa likes to shop randomly, and by that I mean she is an accidental shopper.  Unintentionally picking up something for her wardrobe when not actually out shopping for clothes.  I have the same problem myself, which drives my husband nuts because I am forever window shopping, 
"My life is one ongoing shopping trip. I can always manage to find something to buy - if I'm in an airport, I'll buy one of those dog-breed bags or something. Yesterday I bought a hat. When I leave my house to get a coffee, I end up wandering into a nearby vintage shop and buying something I don't really need, or already have." 


Alexa has in the past had her own issues about her looks, but she doesn't feel that way now.  I think it's because she has learnt to be herself and it is herself that has gotten her where she is today.
"When I was young I wanted to be blond. I was gutted that I had dark hair. When I was modelling, I always wanted to look like another girl, because you were always being given reasons why you didn't get something, such as "If you were two inches taller ... " or, "If you were blond ... " but now that doesn't matter."


She's not a typical beauty, but she is beautiful. She doesn't dress conventionally, but I am inspired by her sense of style.  She is lucky, she gets to do what she loves working in two industries, tv and publishing, - amazing.  I wonder where she'll go to from here? 
Expect to be seeing a lot more of Alexa.

Ciao for now,

Hx

Sources: Garance Dorè, Elle, Harper's Bazaar, Refinery29, Denimology, Zimbio, Listal.  If I've left anybody out, please forgive me.
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